It's My One Year Anniversary!

I can't believe it's been one year since I got the idea to put all of my beauty product know-how and advice into a blog.

Since then, I have gotten to meet some of my beauty favorites, like Leslie Blodgett, Paula Begoun and Jan Marini. I've gotten to do some interesting things, like roll down a hill in a hamster ball filled with water to test Tarte makeup. I have also mastered the art of writing a sponsored blog post using a words and phrases specified by the company, despite the fact there is no link between them and the product I am reviewing.

I have gotten myself into some odd situations, like getting ready to interview a certain MTV celeb on the spur of the moment and then forgetting who she is and what her name was, as I was walking up to speak with her. Luckily, my two sisters-in-law were there to answer when I whisper yelled, "Why is she famous?".

Since then, I have written over 400 posts and made some really amazing friends, despite the fact I have never met most of them. Loxy, my most loyal reader, has learned more than he ever wanted to about makeup. The coolest/weirdest/least expected thing? Having strangers approach me and call me Gouldylox.

Since I can't pick one favorite post, I asked Loxy to pick one. And in a turn that surprises me and doesn't surprise me at all, he picked the post where I get to use his mistake to help everyone learn what not to do when you get a bad haircut.


Thanks for all of your comments, for reading my reviews daily and for not openly mocking my grayish roots or minuscule lashes. You're the best!

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When Should You Apply Your Sunscreen? Before or After Your Skincare?

I recently found a video where Dr. Neal Schultz, a noted dermatologist, mentioned that sunscreen should be applied first and not last, which is what I have always been taught. Considering that fighting sun damage, despite using sunscreen every day, is a huge concern of mine.

In the past, my dermatologist didn't believe that I wasn't a sun worshipper because of the extent of my sun damage. The truth is, I have been wearing a Titanium Dioxide based sunscreen everyday since I was 22. My dermatologist believes that my skin (it's Irish, for the most part) is most likely genetically predisposed to burn. This is likely to be true because I don't tan. I get pink, sometimes peel and then go white again. But my face stays protected at all times, no matter what.

Dr. Schultz has also stated that antioxidant products are not needed during the day and you should only apply them at night. That sounds like a great idea, because it would make your product last longer, but is it true? Is needing an antioxidant to fight free radicals during the day something cosmetic companies have told us and we believed? Is everything I have always been told incorrect?


To get to the bottom of this debate, I asked a few other noted skin care professionals and cosmetic scientists. The first to respond? Paula Begoun, a consultant for dermatologists, plastic surgeons, major cosmetics companies, and industry insiders. Paula is well known for her books, like Don't go to the Cosmetics Counter Without Me and for her website Beautypedia, where she gives consumers the truth about products and how (or if) they work. Here is what she told me:

"Dermatologist Dr. Neil Schultz is just plain wrong. His recommendation that sunscreen should be the first skin-care product a person applies flies in the face of everything we know about sunscreens. Following his logic would mean that sunscreen should be applied before cleanser as well. Dr. Schultz writes that sunscreen should go on before exfoliants and moisturizers. He also implies that antioxidants should only be used at night. The implication of antioxidants only being useful at night is not supported by any studies. Skin is confronted with free radical damage at all hours, so denying it an antioxidant boost in the morning doesn’t make sense. If anything, antioxidants are needed MORE during the day because sun exposure is such a potent source of damage. There’s also the issue that copious research has shown that antioxidants not only boost the efficacy of sunscreen actives but also help skin better defend itself against the oxidative damage sun exposure can cause, even when you’re diligent about applying sunscreen. But back to the issue of putting on sunscreen first. This dermatologist’s argument is that in order for sunscreen to be effective it must “bind with the skin in a chemical reaction to make it able to absorb or block the sun rays”. But how can it bind to skin if you are wiping it away or diluting it with other ingredients? You’d be “un-binding” it by applying several other products afterward. Hasn’t this doctor noticed that it takes special sunscreen formulations to hold up when you sweat (even though you applied the sunscreen first and it must have bound to skin by his logic) and then because it becomes diluted and breaks down you have to reapply it. Skin-care products would do the same thing! When sunscreen is applied as the last step in your skin-care routine, there’s no chance of anything else you’ve applied causing dilution or preventing it from providing even coverage, which is what you want. Sunscreen actives work by converting the sun’s harmful radiation into harmless heat via a chemical reaction. In order for sunscreen to work, you don’t want it to absorb too far into the skin because it needs to stay relatively near the surface to prevent the sun’s rays from getting by. Applying several products over sunscreen is sort of like putting up an umbrella to stay dry after you’re hair is already dripping wet. I really don’t know what Dr. Schultz was thinking and he doesn’t quote any research, but from every piece of research I’ve seen about sunscreen, I would not take his advice. One more comment: you may be wondering about applying foundation over sunscreen. This can complicate matters but generally because foundation is designed to stay on the very surface of skin and not absorb it is less problematic. However, for the little bit of problem foundation can pose (and moisturizing foundations or tints definitely pose) there are steps you can take to minimize sunscreen dilution. Wait for the sunscreen to set before applying foundation, and, during application, make sure you’re applying in smooth, downward motions. Don’t apply in a rubbing or back-and-forth motion and don’t use excess pressure. Of course, you can avoid the issue entirely by using a foundation rated SPF 15 or greater than contains the right UVA-protecting ingredients I’ve discussed at length. Secondary to that, you may also wish to set your foundation with a pressed powder rated SPF 15 or greater."

What do you think? I will be sure to update this post as more insiders weigh in!

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2009 Favorite Things Countdown # 7 and #6

Here is a look at my favorite shampoo and conditioner as well as the most overlooked product you probably don't own. (But you should!)

And here's two of my favorite interviews from the year. It's fitting they should be next to each other, since they are in cahoots about telling me I am perimenopausal.

Favorite Thing # 7: Mally Lash Illusion Eye Liner

I have been spending a lot of time lately, checking out liners that will work for the inner rim of the eye, the waterline. Some go on really nicely, some melt away and some can stay on like rock stars. But more on those later. In the meantime, I came across a liner that is slightly different from your normal pencil liner. It's still a pencil, it's still a black liner, but it's different from all of your other pencils.


Mally Beauty Lash Illusion Liner is a teeny, tiny pencil that is to be used to fill in spaces between your lashes, giving you a fuller lash line without looking like you're wearing liner. It's a time honored makeup artist trick, one you probably have been reading about since you were 15. You know the one: "gently dot right along your lash line and then connect the dots, making sure to stay right inbetween your lashes." And probably, like me, you tried. I tried for hours to make the dots work without looking like I was wearing liner. The problem? ALL pencils are too thick to make a line that isn't noticeable (see below for regular pencil "dots" vs. Mally).



My hands aren't steady enough to pull that off with a liquid liner and skinny brush, so it never worked for me. I can't get enough eyeshadow pigment on a tiny brush to make a noticeable difference.


Mally Beauty's Lash Illusion is a little pencil that does the job perfectly. How tiny is tiny? We are talking three-of-them-can-fit-in-the-width-of-my-middle-finger tiny. They are very pigmented and easy to use. You get two black/brown liners in a cute little case and luckily, they come with their own sharpener. Mally (makeup artist to super-performers like Beyonce, Jennifer Lopez, Rihanna and Mary J. Blige) suggests you hold the pencil up and down, perpendicular to your lash line and gently dot along your lashes, filling them in. While I can't seem to manage to do that, I have no problem just getting between my lashes and filling them in. This pencil specifically kicks butt for the lower lashes, where you can easily line lightly in between the lash line. You won't look like you are wearing eye liner, while making your eyes pop. It's a great trick, but you can only do it with this pencil (I am sure a pro can do it with something else, but I can't!). For $20, plus shipping from the Q, you'll get 2 pencils, the case and the sharpener. You have to have these little pencils in your bag of tricks. Especially if you don't like to wear a lot of makeup, these give your eyes some kick without looking like you are trying too hard.

I love them. Check them out!
(These were sent to me for the purposes of review.)



Favorite Thing # 6 Ever Pure Shampoo and Conditioner



So this review isn't really for a new product. In fact, I know news about this shampoo has been everywhere. But here's the deal - I didn't want Loreal's EverPure Moisture Shampoo to work. I told my friends they shouldn't use it. Over and over again.

Why? I feel like Loreal is playing on consumers' interest in the green initiative to get rid of harsh sulfates in a soap, with no real intent to be kind to my hair and the environment. That doesn't seem like a bad goal to have, being green, but I don't like to be so openly manipulated. It also bothers me because by saying that having sulfates (which are in everything) makes your shampoo bad, equals saying that every other hair product Loreal makes for colored hair is bad for your colored hair. As if they are admitting they have been pulling the wool over our eyes until the release of this product. The big sulfate we all know you must avoid is the harsh ammonium lauryl sulfate. Lauryl does have a sister detergent, Laureth, and she is not quite as harsh and is typically accepted to be better for color treated hair. That said, you may want to consider avoiding sulfates in general, but that is up to you.

Now, I eat crow.

This stuff really does work. My hair color, which is bright, bright red, has lasted longer for the last month than ever before. I haven't found myself reaching for a color depositing shampoo or conditioner and my hair is really, really shiny. I mean out-of-this-world, getting-compliments-all-of-the-time-shiny. My color hasn't faded. And for a red, that is saying something. The shiny, may be due in part to a conditioner (I'll get to that later). But for a product I wanted to fail, I really, really liked it!

I bought this item. Several times.



Quick Chat with Paula Begoun, The Cosmetics Cop


Paula Begoun has to be the original beauty blogger. Before blogs, before lightening fast Internet, there was a series of books called "Don't Go to The Cosmetics Counter Without Me". If you aren't familiar with this title, and you love cosmetics, these books will change your life. Paula reviews cosmetic products by their chemical composition, not by her opinion of what she personally likes.

Her reviews are like neutral ground; stable compounds that are packaged properly will get high marks. Outlandish claims or harsh unneeded fragrances will not do so well. If you ever want to know what products live up to their claims from a cosmetic chemist point of view, Paula is your gal. Better yet, become a paid subscriber to Paula's website, Beautypedia and never miss a thing. I am constantly reading her reviews and her online ingredient dictionary is my go-to resource for quick research.

I recently had the chance to chat with Paula very briefly on her Blog Talk Radio show. My question? What is going on with my skin? Why is the skin around my nose taking on a spongy appearance while the rest of my face still looks nice and smooth? Her answer? I might be perimenopausal.

WHAT? Wait, I am slipping into menopause? I'm 36! Paula mentioned that one thing that effects the size of pores is androgen. As the body doesn't make as much estrogen, pore size can increase. All of which, is a side effect of perimenopause.

OK. I would like to forget that portion of the conversation happened.

So let's skip ahead to what she said I could do to improve the size of my pores. "Avoid irritating ingredients in all of your skin care products. Be sure to use products that do not contain things like alcohol, peppermint and many plant extracts. Try to avoid fragrances, they just aren't needed. Look for a really great exfoliant. Salicylic acid is a great exfoliant that can help bring about changes in your skin and the texture. There are quite a few out there, but, call me biased, I really like my 2% Beta Hydroxy Acid Gel. It really helps exfoliate the skins surface, as well as the pore lining."


I mentioned that as a blogger I change products often, every four to six weeks, and Paula exclaimed, "Oh my. I guess bloggers have to do that, but everyone else shouldn't. Skincare is like your diet. Can you imagine if you ate all kinds of random foods constantly? You would have the worse case of indigestion ever. If you can find a regimen you like, stick with it. The better it is for you and the more consistent you are, the better your skin will look. And of course, be sure to wear your sunscreen protection."

Even if I deny I could be perimenopausal, it was so much fun to chat with someone who has been such an influence in my life for the last 15 years. Thanks, Paula!

Jan Marini Gets Serious About Skin Care
I recently had the chance to chat with skin care aficionado, Jan Marini, the woman behind JanMarini Skin Research. Jan's line is known for being a leader in new anti-aging, resurfacing and repairative skin technology. Since I am all about the science behind the products, I was thrilled to get a chance to speak with her and find out what products she would suggest to help my skin, as it begins the newest phase of the aging process.



First off, I should tell you that one of Jan's newer products, the Age Intervention Regeneration Booster uses topical Telomerase Enzyme therapies to deliver truly dramatically skin rejuvenation benefits. This therapy is so ground breaking, three scientists were recently awarded the Nobel Peace Prize in Physiology or Medicine for their work surrounding the anti-aging properties of telomeres. Clearly, her products go way beyond the glossy hype that surrounds so many of her competitors. I can't wait to get my hands on this tiny bottle of dramatic rejuvenation. More importantly, I couldn't wait to learn more from Jan herself.

Before I dive in to my skin care overhaul, here are some facts I learned by chatting with Jan Marini:

- Wrinkles are actually wounds to the skin. Wound research has shown that topical agents have the ability to help heal wrinkles. If you concentrate on skin cell communicating ingredients that aid in wound healing, you will have the ability to heal wrinkles (ie greatly diminish their appearance).

-80% of sun damage occurs before the age of 10. (10!?! I was thinking of how I could meet The Karate Kid and make him fall in love with me, not about wrinkle prevention!)

-If you have a blemish, dab a bit of cortisone cream on the spot and cover with a band aid. This yields a similar (although not exactly the same) result as getting an injection would.

While this isn't a fun fact, I did enjoy this portion of our conversation immensely (when speaking about another brand who uses a myth about mineral oil to promote their products):

"Mineral Oil is not bad for the skin. It is one of my favorite myths about skin and skin care - that skin needs to breathe. No one has ever shown me lungs within the skin and skin does not breathe. Mineral Oil is actually organic and it's job is to be occlusive. It's not a bad thing. It isn't causing the death of skin by not allowing it to breathe. Again, skin doesn't have lungs."

I love it when science trumps hype.

I was excited to get a chance to chat with her about what products would actually work for me. Perhaps someone can get to the bottom of this sponge-like appearance near my nose (which Paula Begoun said was due to being perimenopausal) and the fine lines around my eyes.

I explained to Jan that I had nice skin, with lots of (undeserved) melasma, that was very dry, with fine lines and had the spongey next-to-my-nose skin. Without missing a beat, Jan said the change in skin texture was no doubt due to becoming perimenopausal. If I didn't know better, I would say she and Paula Begoun were in cahoots.

Jan suggested an intensive treatment regimen to revamp my skin, help diminish fine lines and improve the radiance and texture of my skin. Thank goodness she sent me a checklist of what to do, because it is some serious skin care. It doesn't take any more time than what I usually do, but it is intensive.

Here is my plan:

Wash (in a specific way) using BioGlycolic Facial Cleanser twice per day. I have been doing that prior to our chat, so be on a the look out for a review soon!

Follow up with C-Esta Face Serum twice a day and BioClear Lotion in the evenings.

Use Age Intervention Face Cream and Age Intervention Eye Treatment twice each day.

Once per week, cleanse and treat with two enzyme treatments, Clean Zyme and Skin Zyme and use the Age Intervention Regeneration Mask (but not on the same day).

Of course, each day use the SPF 30 AntiOxidant Sunscreen (which is my favorite sunscreen of all time). I can't stress how important it is use to sunscreen anytime you are outside between the hours of 5am and 10pm. It's not about being sunny and needing sun screen. It's about preventing damage from the UVA and UVB rays you can't see. Rainy, cloudy or after 3pm, you still need to protect your skin from the sun.

It's intensive, but as I start week three I am seeing a difference. My skin is definitely smoother and is glowing. I am hopeful the fine lines will begin to diminish soon. You know I will give you the scoop, as soon as I can. For now, here's to fewer lines and glowing skin!


Products were sent to me for the purposes of review.




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Almost Out of Time: Holiday Ideas for When the Internet Isn't Fast Enough.

Unless you are my friend Capella, who purposely shops on December 24th for everyone and sets up her tree that night, you are officially behind the 8-ball of Christmas shopping. And I am right there with you. I am having a personally super-goofy, Lifetime Television, drama-filled life and can't seem to figure out what to get anyone. And Mom, I know I still need to tell you what calendar I want. (Something with pretty dog photography, maybe?) Here are some ideas for when internet delivery won't make it in time.



925 Silver, a shop I have loved for a long time, located in the heart of Fells Point sells beautiful and funky silver jewelry in price ranges for everyone. You can throw a rock in that store and I promise you I can't live without whatever it hits. The upside is you are guaranteed to find something, the downside is you have to get up and go there in person. They are still working on a website.

You can't go wrong with a salon gift certificate. I can promise you that while your loved one is getting a relaxing massage, facial or whatever, they are thinking about how awesome you are. If I were picking, I would opt for a facial from JoElle at Ted Gibson/Hela Spa in DC, a haircut from Bethany at Balance The Salon in Baltimore, a mani/pedi from Red Door or anything from Burke Williams. Ooh! I just heard from the Red Door Spa and they are offering a cool gift card promotion. If you purchase a $200 gift card or gift certificate you receive a free $30 gift card to use for yourself. Sweet!

For the makeup maven or skin care obsessed lady in your life, do them a favor and give them a subscription to Beautypedia. Beautypedia is a website run by the Cosmetic's Cop, Paula Begoun, who tells you which products can chemically do what they claim from a scientific standpoint. It's pretty much the holy grail for cosmetic fans, even if Paula and I disagree on a few choice brands. (I'm sure she's right, but I like what I like sometimes.) If the internet subscription won't work, mosey over to your bookstore and snag a copy of either of her equally amazing books, Don't Go to the Cosmetics Counter Without Me or The Original Beauty Bible. Here is a pic of the two of us at a recent speaking engagement. Look at that skin - she clearly knows what she is talking about!


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